Thailand, the third-largest country in Southeast Asia, is home to some of the most frequently visited destinations in the world. There’s the hustle and bustle and vibrant nightlife of capital city Bangkok, the laid-back cultural experience of Chiang Mai, and the sun-kissed beaches of Phuket.
The same goes for music. From the bar and restaurant shows that occur weekly across Bangkok to large outdoor festivals like Big Mountain Music Festival and Wonderfruit, Thailand has made a name for itself as a premier destination for international acts of all stripes.
Names that have visited Thailand over the past few years include cult UK favourites The Wedding Present, more mainstream acts such as Maroon 5, and world-dominating K-Pop groups Twice and Blackpink.
Where to play in Thailand?
The majority of Thailand’s urban population lives in the Bangkok Metropolitan Region (BMR), which encompasses Bangkok itself and surrounding provinces Nakhon Pathom, Pathum Thani, Nonthaburi, Samut Prakan, and Samut Sakhon. None of the other cities in Thailand even come close population-wise.
Bangkok is also home to most of the notable indie-friendly venues in Thailand, making it the primary destination for any band looking to tour the country. Indie-friendly venues in the capital to check out include Speakerbox, JAM, Fatty’s Bar & Diner, Studio Lam, To more, and RockPub.
For most bands, playing one show in Bangkok will be more than enough. Despite the large population, there aren’t that many bars open to non-mainstream independent music in the capital. Trying to play two shows back-to-back won’t go down well with the bar owners, as you’ll just end up splitting your crowd between two bars.
This will cut into the food and alcohol takings at each, so it’s better to stick to one show and concentrate everyone there unless you’re an internationally renowned act with an established Thai fanbase. Korean stars Hyukoh attracted four-figure crowds two nights in a row in Bangkok, but that’s not something most bands can pull off.
If you must play multiple shows in Bangkok, the best approach is to space your shows out. Playing on separate weekends is probably best to avoid cannibalising your audience. Having a gap between your shows will also give a chance for any positive word of mouth to spread, possibly getting you a larger audience the second time around.
That does mean you’ll have a lot of downtime, though. So, what to do in the meantime?
Playing Other Thai Cities
Whether you’re trying to kill time between Bangkok shows or trying to see more of the country, there are a few cities outside of Bangkok that you might be able to play in as a non-mainstream act.
The first and probably best option is Ayutthaya, an hour north of Bangkok. JunkHouse Music Bar is the go-to destination for indie and non-mainstream music in Ayutthaya and should be your first point of contact if you’re keen on playing there.
Another option around Bangkok is the college city of Nakhon Pathom, which is about 60 KM to the west of the capital. The big appeal of Nakhon Pathom, aside from its proximity to Bangkok, is that it’s home to two prominent music colleges, including the College of Music at Mahidol University.
If you’re keen on exploring further afield, Maha Sarakham in the northeast Isan province is a solid option. It’s another university town that plays host to a music school, namely Mahasarakham University’s College of Music. Mahaniyom is the place to check out in Maha Sarakham if you’re an indie band looking to play the city.
We have it on good authority that the presence of young music students makes for a more open-minded, indie-friendly crowd. This makes cities like Nakhon Pathom and Maha Sarakham excellent choices for a non-mainstream act looking to attract a crowd.
Khon Kaen is another university town in the northeast. Unfortunately for indie bands, the audience in Khon Kaen leans towards Thai-language music, meaning it’ll probably be a bit of a challenge to get locals interested in your act.
Chiang Mai in the north has been called the “indie music capital” of Thailand. Unfortunately for touring bands, the go-to indie venue in the city, Minimal Cafe, closed down a few years ago. The only notable gig space there now is Warmup Cafe, but it has a more mainstream focus. Besides, with its 300-pax capacity, you should probably only consider it if your band is popular enough to attract that many paying customers.
It’s worth noting that Chiang Mai’s crowd is known for being relatively reclusive and inward-looking. Even if you can get a show, there’s no guarantee that you’ll be able to attract a crowd. So maybe skip Chiang Mai unless your band’s super popular.
The south of Thailand is a no-go unless you can attract an expatriate crowd in Phuket. Depending on where you’re from and what sort of music you play, that’s easier said than done.
Playing shows isn’t the only way you can spend your time in Thailand productively, though!
Media and Mingling
There’s more to do during your free time in Bangkok than drinking and partying. You should make the most of your time by attending shows and connecting with Thai indie media. Going around and establishing contacts is never a bad idea, and it should help spread the word about your band within the scene.
If you want to engage with Thai indie media, your best bet is to get in touch withFungjaizine and NYLON Thailand. NYLON Thailand should be a priority, as the current (as of May 2021) director also happens to be one of the co-founders of Bangkok Music City and the main organiser of the Sofar Sounds shows in Thailand.
One possible approach is to get in touch with NYLON Thailand and coordinate your visit with a Sofar Sounds event. Not only will you be able to play a regular show in Bangkok, but you might also get the chance to record a live session. You’ll leave Thailand having played a show (or shows) and recorded a video that can help build a fanbase for any upcoming visits.
Coda in Bangkok is also another avenue worth looking into. It’s a small studio in Bangkok that bands can rent out for live video recordings and even live-streamed studio performances. There’s also a food court right outside, so there’s a chance your session could turn into an impromptu gig if you’re entertaining enough.
Beyond the media stuff, don’t forget to just do the rounds in Bangkok. Attend shows and check out bands on your off days, especially if you’re spending those days in Bangkok. Monday and Tuesday are relatively quiet, but things usually start picking up from Wednesday onwards. Fridays and Saturdays are the peak days for shows, as you might expect.
It’s a bit old-school, but it works. Who knows, that one person you meet on a rowdy night in a Bangkok bar show might turn out to be your ticket to more shows in the future.
How to Play in Thailand?
The best way to go about getting shows in Bangkok is to work with a local promoter. The promoter to talk to if you’re an Asian indie band is undoubtedly Seen Scene Space. They organise an annual indie festival, POW FEST, and have organised shows for acts such as This Will Destroy You, Mono, and Hyukoh.
Other promoters to reach out to are Have You Heard and Fungjai. The former focuses more on western independent acts, while Fungjai’s concern is primarily local Thai-language indie acts. They’re still worth getting in touch with, though, in addition to Seen Scene Space. Between the three, you should be able to get something sorted out (or be directed to someone who can).
It’s also an excellent idea to link up with a local band before you land in Bangkok. Not only will having local liaisons help with bar owners and other local bands, but they can also help interpret throughout your stay in Thailand. English is mostly the language of the elite in Thailand, so having someone to translate will help you navigate the scene and communicate with the people helping you out with shows.
Like some other Southeast Asian countries, the work permits for musicians in Thailand can be prohibitively expensive for small independent acts. So, try and get into the country low-key with as little equipment as possible. Bring the essentials and borrow the rest from the locals, preferably a band you’ve established contact with beforehand.
When to play in Thailand?
While most Southeast Asian countries share a humid, tropical climate, the region’s climate operates on two different cycles divided between the northwest and southeast parts of the subregion.
Countries in the northwest, including Thailand, have a relatively long dry season from November to February. This four-month stretch is when all of the big festivals take place in the region. In Thailand, some of the festivals you should be aware of include Wonderfruit (December 2021), Big Mountain Music Festival (10-11 December 2021), and Maho Rasop Festival (20-21 November 2021).
This November – February peak makes Thailand a particularly intriguing option for bands from the northern hemisphere that want to tour during the usual winter off-season. If you’re a festival-tier band looking to appear on the big stage, timing your visit to coincide with the aforementioned Thai festivals in November and December is ideal.
Indoor music in Thailand happens all year round, rain or shine. So if you’re only going to be playing bars and smaller venues, the timing of your visit is less critical. That said, it’s still a good idea to visit during the dry season so that you don’t have to deal with torrential monsoon weather when you’re trying to get around the country.
Wrapping Things Up
Thailand isn’t a country where you’ll be putting together a long, multi-city tour like in Indonesia, but it’s well worth a visit regardless. Between its vibrant capital city and rich live music landscape, it’s one of the must-visit countries for bands interested in touring Southeast Asia.
As an independent, non-mainstream act, playing Bangkok should be your number one priority. One show is best, but two shows are doable if you space them out adequately. If you’re keen on exploring, we suggest sticking to the cities we’ve discussed here, starting with Ayutthaya and working your way outwards from there.
Beyond that, try to link up with local media and local bands. Your first stop might not draw the huge crowds everyone dreams of, but if you play your cards right and leave something for the locals to remember, your next visit may just prove to be a bit more popular.